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Herbivore Lapis Facial Oil Review: Blue Tansy on Oily Skin

A researched Herbivore Lapis review: what blue tansy and squalane do, why natural does not mean gentle, essential oil sensitisation, and who should not use a face oil.

· 8 min read

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The short answer

Buy Lapis if you have oily or combination skin, you like a face oil as a final layer, and you are not sensitive to essential oils. Skip it if you react to fragrance or botanicals, because blue tansy is an essential oil and natural is not a synonym for gentle, and skip it entirely if what you actually want is something that reduces oil production, which no topical oil does.

Face oil for oily skin

HERBIVORE

Lapis Facial Oil

~$60

A 30 ml blue tansy, squalane and kukui nut oil blend aimed at oily and blemish-prone skin, vegan and stated by the brand to be non-comedogenic.

Best for: Oily or combination skin that likes a face oil finish

Check price on Amazon →

Herbivore describes Lapis as a skin-soothing face oil that balances congested complexions, powered by blue tansy oil rich in azulene to soothe irritation and reduce redness, with vegan squalane to lock in moisture and kukui nut oil to balance oily skin, applied four to six drops morning and night.

The genuinely defensible part of that formula is squalane. Squalane is a light, stable, well-tolerated emollient with a good record in oily and acne-prone skin, and it is the reason an oil like this can work on skin that fears oils. Our squalane explainer covers why.

The part that needs a caveat is blue tansy. Azulene, the compound responsible for the striking blue colour, has a soothing reputation, and blue tansy is nonetheless an essential oil. Essential oils are among the most common causes of cosmetic contact reactions and sensitisation, and that risk does not shrink because the ingredient is plant derived. If the real question is whether you need a face oil at all, face oil vs moisturizer answers it before you spend anything.

Specifications

SpecDetail
Size30 ml, 1 oz
Key ingredientsBlue tansy oil, vegan squalane, kukui nut oil
Stated skin typesCombination, oily and blemish-prone
ComedogenicityStated by the brand to be non-comedogenic
FormulationVegan and cruelty-free, per the brand
UsageFour to six drops on cleansed skin, morning and night, before SPF or makeup

Specifications above come from Herbivore’s published product information for Lapis.

What it does well

  • Squalane is one of the better emollients for oily skin, and building the oil around it rather than around a heavy botanical base is a sound decision.
  • The texture is light and absorbs quickly, which is the practical difference between a face oil an oily-skinned person will use and one they will abandon.
  • It works well as a final layer over a lightweight moisturiser on skin that is oily and dehydrated at the same time, which is a more common combination than people expect.
  • The formulation is short and legible, which makes it easier to work out what you reacted to if you do react.

Natural is not the same as gentle

Blue tansy is an essential oil. Essential oils are a leading cause of cosmetic contact allergy, and repeated exposure can produce sensitisation in people who tolerated the ingredient at first. If you have reactive skin, eczema, rosacea or a history of reacting to fragranced products, this is a reason for caution and a reason to patch test.

A face oil does not reduce sebum production. The idea that applying oil signals your skin to make less of its own is a persistent claim with no good evidence behind it. Oils soften and seal. They do not regulate.

Non-comedogenic is a marketing designation rather than a regulated one. Plenty of people with acne-prone skin do fine with squalane, and plenty find that any occlusive layer makes congestion worse. Your own skin is the only test that counts here.

At $58 for 30 ml, this is priced well above a bottle of plain squalane doing most of the same work, and the premium is paid mainly for the blue tansy and the brand.

It does not treat acne, rosacea or eczema, and redness that persists is worth having identified rather than soothed. Rosacea in particular has effective treatments and is frequently mistaken for sensitive skin for years.

What owners consistently report

Published owner reviews split cleanly along one line. People who tolerate essential oils tend to love it, describing skin that looks calmer and less shiny by the end of the day and a texture that does not feel greasy. People with reactive skin report stinging or breakouts, and the reports are frequent enough to treat as a real pattern rather than noise.

The other consistent theme is the scent, which is strong and herbal and which reviewers either single out as a pleasure or as the reason they stopped. There is very little middle ground in either direction, which is typical for a botanical-forward formula.

Who it suits

  • Oily and combination skin that wants an oil as a finishing layer.
  • People who like botanical formulas and know they tolerate essential oils.
  • Anyone whose skin is oily and dehydrated at once and needs sealing rather than more water.

Who should skip it

  • Reactive skin, rosacea-prone skin, or anyone with a history of reacting to fragranced or botanical products.
  • People hoping an oil will reduce how much oil they make, which is not a thing oils do.
  • Budget buyers, who can get plain squalane for a fraction of this.

Alternatives worth considering

Three alternatives, each better at a specific thing.

Fragrance-free alternative
~$40

Better if essential oils are the concern, since it is a single-ingredient oil formulated without essential oils, fragrance or silicones.

Best for: Sensitive skin that still wants a face oil

Check price on Amazon →

Our face oil vs moisturizer comparison is the page to read if you are not sure you need an oil at all, and our Virgin Marula review covers the single-ingredient approach in detail.

Different mechanism

Better if your skin is oily and dehydrated and what it needs is water rather than oil, since a gel moisturiser adds hydration without an occlusive layer.

Best for: Oily skin that is dehydrated rather than dry

Check price on Amazon →
Better evidence

Better if redness rather than dryness is the real complaint, because azelaic acid has actual evidence behind it for redness and bumps where a soothing oil has reputation.

Best for: Persistent redness and blemishes

Check price on Amazon →

Frequently asked

Can oily skin use a face oil? +

Yes, many people with oily skin get on well with light oils such as squalane, used as a final sealing layer over a lightweight moisturiser. What an oil will not do is reduce how much oil your skin produces. If congestion worsens after a few weeks, that is your answer and the oil is not for you.

Is blue tansy safe for sensitive skin? +

Blue tansy is an essential oil, and essential oils are among the most common causes of cosmetic contact reactions. Its soothing reputation is not the same as being gentle. Patch test before use if your skin reacts easily, and consider a fragrance-free single-ingredient oil instead if you have eczema or rosacea.

Does a face oil replace moisturiser? +

Usually not. Oils are occlusive and emollient rather than hydrating, so they seal what is already there rather than adding water. Most people do best applying an oil over a moisturiser rather than instead of one. Our face oil versus moisturizer comparison sets out the cases where an oil alone is enough.

Will it clog my pores? +

Herbivore states the formula is non-comedogenic, and that designation is not regulated or standardised. Squalane has a good record in acne-prone skin. Your own experience over four to six weeks is the only reliable test, so introduce it on its own rather than alongside three other new products.

Should I use it before or after sunscreen? +

Before. Herbivore directs applying it to cleansed skin and letting it absorb before SPF or makeup. Putting an oil over sunscreen can disturb the film and undermine the protection you applied it for, and sunscreen is the step in your routine with the most evidence behind it.

Researched from the manufacturer’s published product information, the published ingredient literature and the consensus of verified owner reviews. We have not tested this product hands-on. This is researched information, not professional medical advice: a dermatologist or your own doctor is the right person to ask about your skin, and anyone who is pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive should check with a clinician before starting a new active ingredient. Prices and formulations change, so confirm before buying. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.

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